English follows Japanese.
1/12スケールのドールヘッド
1/12スケールのドールボディにつけられるヘッドを編みました。
といってもオビツ11などではなく、等身が高めのピコニーモやアクションフィギュア系スケールです。
先日のブログでレディトルソーがミニチュア編み物工房の助手に就任したお話を書きました。
今後ミニチュア編み物をするときは1/12スケールのドールハウスの中に入れて違和感がないような造形にしたいなと思っています。そうするとセーターとかは高等身ドールにあわせて作るのがよいのですが、ボディにみあったサイズのヘッドって意外とないのです。とくにイラスト系というかアニメ系のお顔を除外するとだいぶ選択肢がない。
※アニメ系のお顔だと、ピコえっくす☆きゅーととかピコ男子とかがあります
アニメ系のお顔よりはもう少し凸凹があって、目が小さい顔が好きなので、ないなら作るしかないな！ と挑戦することに。
1/12スケールを作るにあたっては25番刺繍糸を1本どりにしました。大した量は必要ではないので、使いたい色はそれぞれ一カセずつあれば大丈夫です。かぎ針は0.4mm。
この編み図の注意点
といいつつ、さすがに刺繍糸1本どりで編むのは大変です。一方で立体的に人間の頭を編むことに関心のある方はたくさんいらっしゃるようなので、今回の編み図を公開することにしました。頭だけの作り方ですがご興味あればぜひお試しください。立体的に編むためのヒントくらいにはなるかな？ と思います。
いくつか注意点があります。
首は3mmジョイント前提
ピコニーモや素材くんなどのアクションフィギュア素体、そのほかプラモデルなどによく使われている3mm軸のジョイントに接続する前提で首を作っています。そのため、別のサイズで作って何らかのボディに接続したい場合はご注意ください。
とくに、首の穴から直接首を編もうとするとややこしいことになります。あごのラインなどもジョイント用の穴を作る前提で造形してあるので、ちょっと変なかたちになっちゃうと思います。適当に調節してみてください。
糸によってけっこう見た目が変わる
編んで造形をしているため、使う糸の性質によって見た目の印象がけっこう変わります。
1/12スケールにするためには刺繍糸1本どりで何目・何段くらい編んだらいいのかの目安をつけたあと、造形の細部を詰めるためにハマナカ ピッコロを使って模型的なものを編みました。それがこちら。
そのあと刺繍糸1本どりで本番を編んだのがこちら。
正面からだとよくわかりませんが、横顔を見ると違いが一目瞭然。刺繍糸1本どりのほうが鼻が高いんです。ちょっとコナンくんみたいな形になってます。
刺繍糸1本どりと一般的な毛糸との目・段の比率がけっこう違うみたいです。全体的にタテ（段）が短くて、ヨコ（目）が広がった感じに。
続いて編み図をチェックするために編んだのが40番レース糸のこちら。
口の存在感が強いなどの違いがあります。
髪の毛の編み図はないです
今回の編み図、髪の毛のぶんはないです。編み図通りに編むとスキンヘッドになります。
本番とピッコロのは、途中で頭を編むのをやめて、別パーツで後頭部と髪の毛を作り、合体させています。
後頭部のパーツの編み方はほぼThe Dahlia Dollのカツラと同じです（合体させる必要性などからちょっと変えている場所があります）。
髪の毛は編み方によっていろいろ表情をつけられます。髪の毛については以前に作った書籍『犬と暮らそう』に4パターンほど載せていますので、よろしければどうぞ。
Amazon PODのほか、データ版がcodocのサブスクリプション加入でご覧いただけます。
横顔にこだわったので正面はやや微妙です
今回はとにかく横顔の造形にこだわりました。Eラインがしっかり出ることやおでこの丸みなど。でも一方で正面顔はちょこっと微妙です。少しほおがこけていてさびしい印象を与えるかもしれません。このへんは今後またアレンジしていきたいなと思っているところ。
作り方
材料・道具
糸は4色使います。
MC（地肌の色）
CC1（白目の色）
CC2（瞳の真ん中の色）
CC3（瞳の外側の色）
40番レース糸で編んだとき、MCをだいたい10g位使いました。
そのほか、
手芸わた・とじ針・ステッチマーカーを用意してください。
凡例
目
編みおわったらわたを詰めて縫い絞ってとじます。
頭
糸の性質や手のきつさによって斜行具合が変わりますので、14段目の鎖3目（耳の土台）と鎖12目（首の穴）は位置がずれているなと思ったら適当に調節してみてください。
右眼窩（目のくぼみ）
頭を裏側にひっくり返し、12段目を編むときに飛ばした5目の真ん中に糸をつけて編みます。
左眼窩（目のくぼみ）
右と同様に編みます。両方編んだら目をはめてまた表側にひっくり返します。
左耳
レース糸の場合耳がぐるぐると動いてしまうことがあるので、気になる場合は糸端で縫い止めておきます。
右耳
左と同様に編みます。
首ジョイント用穴
首穴を編む前にわたを詰めます。わたを入れただけでは眉間に上手に入っていかないので、割り箸やピンセットなどを使って詰めていってください。鼻にはわたを詰めなくて大丈夫です。
首穴の好きなところに糸をつけて編んでいきます。1・11段目は頭の中で折りたたむ場所になります。まず10段編んで一度折りたたみ、ジョイントの長さやわたの詰め具合が十分かどうか確認してください。
1/12 scale doll head
I made a doll head that can be attached to 1:12 scale bodies: Picconeemo or action figures.
In a recent blog, I wrote about Lady Trousseau’s appointment as an assistant at a miniature crocheting studio in Japanese.
When I do miniature crocheting in the future, I would like to make a figure that would not look out of place inside a 1:12 scale dollhouse. I would like to make sweaters and other items to fit taller dolls, but I am surprised that there are no heads that match the body size. Especially if you exclude illustration-type or anime-type faces, there is not much choice.
(For anime-type faces, there are Picco EX Cute (ピコえっくす☆きゅーと) and Picco Boys (ピコ男子).
I like faces that are not flat so much and have smaller eyes than anime-type faces, so if there is no choice, I had to make one! So I decided to give it a try.
To make a 1:12 scale model, I used single-stranded embroidery floss. You don’t need a lot, so you only need one skein of each color you want to use. The crochet hook is 0.4mm.
Notes on this pattern
It is indeed difficult to work with a single-strand of embroidery floss. On the other hand, there seems many people are interested in making a three-dimensional human head, so I decided to publish this pattern. If you are interested, please give it a try. I hope it will be useful as a hint for crocheting a three-dimensional human head. There are a few things to note.
The neck is supposed to be a 3mm joint.
The neck is made on the assumption that it will be connected to a 3mm joint, which is often used for action figure bodies such as Picconeemo and Sozai Kun (素材くん), as well as other plastic models. Therefore, please be careful if you want to make a figure of a different size and connect it to a body of some other size.
In particular, if you try to work the neck directly from the hole, it will be complicated. The jaw line and other parts of the body are also made on the assumption that the holes for joints will be made, so they will look a little odd. Try adjusting it as you see fit.
The appearance varies depending on the yarn.
Since the modeling is done by crocheting, the appearance of the model changes depending on the nature of the threads used.
After I had a rough idea of how many stitches and rounds I needed with a single-strand of embroidery floss to make a 1:12 scale model, I used Hamanaka Piccolo to make a model-like object to finalize the details of the modeling. Here it is.
After that, I made the main model with a single-strand of embroidery floss:
You can’t really tell the difference from the front, but the difference is obvious when you look at the profile. The nose is taller with the single embroidery thread. It looks a little like Detective Conan.
The ratio of the stitching and the rounds of the embroidery floss is quite different from that of ordinary wool or acrylic yarns. The overall length (rounds) is shorter and the width (stitches) is wider.
Next, to check the pattern, I made this one with No. 40 lace yarn(50g / 445m):
There are some differences such as the stronger presence of the mouth.
There is no pattern for the hair.
There is no hair part in this pattern. If you work according to the pattern, you will get a skin head.
In the production and Piccolo’s, I stopped working the head in the middle, and make the back of the head and the hair separatedly, and joined them together.
The way of making the back of the head part is almost the same as The Dahlia Doll’s wig (there are some places where it is slightly changed due to the need to combine the parts).
The hair can be made to look different depending on stitches. I have already published about 4 patterns of hair in my previous book “Let’s Live with Dogs” in Japanese, if you would like to see them.
codoc subscription is available for Japanese PDF book with charts.
I focused on the profile, so the front view is a little subtle.
This time, I was particular about the profile, such as the E-line and the roundness of the forehead. On the other hand, the frontal face is a bit subtle. Cheeks are a little too rounded, which may give a lonely impression. I would like to rearrange this in the future.
Pattern
Materials and tools
Four colors of yarn are used.
MC (color of skin)
CC1 (color of the whites of the eyes)
CC2 (color of the middle of the eyes)
CC3 (color of the outer part of the eye)
When I made with No. 40 lace yarn, I used about 10g of MC.
Prepare stuffing, a yarn needle, and stitch markers.
Abbreviations
chain (ch)
slip stitch (sl st)
back loop only (blo)
front loop only (flo)
single crochet stitch (sc)
single crochet 2 in 1 stitch (inc)
single crochet 2 together (dec)
double crochet (dc)
double crochet 2 in 1 stitch (dc inc)
double crochet 3 in 1 stitch
half double crochet (hdc)
{ } …times: repeat instructions in { } .. times
st(s): stitch(es)
R: Round or Row
A. Eyes (make 2)
Use CC2. Starting with an adjustable ring,
1: ch 1, sc 6. Sl st in the 1st sc to join [6 sts]
Cut yarn and fasten off. Attach CC1 in any st,
2: ch 1 (this ch counts as a st,) sc 1 in the same st, inc 5 times [12 sts]
3: {sc 1, inc} 6 times [18 sts]
Do not cut yarn. Using CC3, sl st 6 times between R1 and 2. Attach yarn to wrong side and pull to right side using hook.
Return to work with CC1.
4-6 (3 rounds): sc 18 [18 sts]
7: {dec, sc 1} 6 times [12 sts]
Leaving a long tail, cut yarn and fasten off. Stuff. To close, weave front loops only of each st, pull tightly, fasten off.
B. Face
Use MC. Starting with an adjustable ring,
1: sc 6 [6sts]
2: inc 6 times [12 sts]
3: sc 1, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 1, inc [15 sts]
4: sc 5, {inc FLO} 2 times, sc 8 [17 sts]
5: sc 2, inc 2 times, sc 2, {dc 3 in the same st BLO} in 2 sts of R3 (you previously worked inc FLO), skip 2 sts, sc 2, inc 2 times, sc 5 [25 sts]
6: sc 2, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 3, sc FLO 1, dec FLO 2 times, sc FLO 1, sc 3, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5 [27 sts]
7: sc 2, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 4,{sc BLO 1, dec BLO 2 times, sc BLO 1} in 6 sts of R5 (you previously worked FLO), skip 4 sts, sc 4, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 5 [31 sts]
8: {sc 3, inc} 2 times, sc 7, ch 3, skip 1 ch, sc 1 under the next ch, hdc 1 under the next ch, sc 7, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 4 [40 sts]
9: sc 8, {inc, sc 2} 2 times, inc, dec, sc BLO 2 in 2 chs of R8, skip 1 ch, sc BLO 2 in sc and hdc, dec, {inc, sc 2} 2 times, inc, sc 9 [43 sts]
10: sc 8, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 4, dec 2 times, sc 4, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 9 [47 sts]
11: sc 8, inc, sc 12, dec 2 times, sc 12, inc, sc 9 [47 sts]
12: sc 8, inc, sc 6, ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc 1, dec 2 times, sc 1, ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc 6, inc, sc 9 [47 sts]
13: sc 16, sc 5 in 5 chs, sc 4, sc 5 in 5 chs, sc 17 [47 sts]
14: sc 9, ch 3, sc 9, inc, sc 3, inc 2 times, sc 3, inc, sc 11, ch 3, sc 3, ch 12, skip 5 sts [64 sts]
3-chs become ear bases. If the positions are unbalanced, move 3-chs to the right positions. Do the same for the 12-chs.
15: skip 6 sts, sc 3, skip 3 chs, sc 16, inc 2 times, sc 16, skipe 3 chs, sc 3, sc 12 in 12 chs [54 sts]
16-21 (6 rounds): sc 54 [54 sts]
22: {dec, sc 7} 6 times [48 sts]
23: {sc 3, dec, sc 3} 6 times [42 sts]
24: {sc 5, dec} 6 times [36 sts]
Stop working when you make hair seperately.
25: {sc 2, dec, sc 2} 6times [30 sts]
26: {dec, sc 3} 6 times [24 sts]
27: {sc 2, dec} 6 times [18 sts]
28: {dec, sc 1} 6 times [12 sts]
29: dec 6 times [6 sts]
Leaving a long tail, cut yarn and fasten off. To close, weave front loops only of each st, pull tightly, fasten off.
Turn the work to wrong side outside.
C. Right orbit
Use MC. Attach yarn FLO in 3rd st of skipped 5 sts in Head’s R12,
1: ch 1 (this ch counts as a st,) sc FLO in the same st, inc FLO 2 times, move to 5 chs of R13, dc 3 in the next st, inc, sc 3 in the next st, inc, dc 3 in the next st, move to R12, {dc FLO 2 in the next st} 2 times [23 sts]
2-4 (3 rounds): sc 23 [23 sts]
5: {dec, sc 2} 5 times, sc 3 [18 sts]
Sl st in the next st, cut yarn and fasten off.
D. Left orbit
Use MC. Attach yarn FLO in 3rd st of skipped 5 sts in Head’s R12,
1: ch 1 (this ch counts as a st,) sc FLO in the same st, {dc FLO 2 in the next st} 2 times, move to 5 chs of R13, dc 3 in the next st, inc, sc 3 in the next st, inc, dc 3 in the next st, move to R12, inc FLO 2 times [23 sts]
2-4 (3 rounds): sc 23 [23 sts]
5: {dec, sc 2} 5 times, sc 3 [18 sts]
Sl st in the next st, cut yarn and fasten off.
Put eyes in orbits. Turn the work to right side outside.
E. Left ear
Use MC. Work an ear in 3chs loop in Head’s R14.
1: insert hook into chs loop from dolls back to front, sc 6 [6 sts]
2: ch 1, turn, hdc 3 in the same st, inc 2 times, dc 2 in the next st, dc 1, sc 1 [11 sts]
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Stuff Head. Not too firmly: you need a space for joint for doll bodies.
F. Right ear
Use MC. Work an ear in 3chs loop in Head’s R14.
1: insert hook into chs loop from dolls back to front, sc 6 [6 sts]
2: turn, no ch, sc 1, dc 1, dc 2 in the next st, inc 2 times, hdc 3 in the next st, ch 1, sl st in the same st [11 sts]
Cut yarn and fasten off.
G: Neck joint space
Diameters and lengths differ according the body type. This pattern is intended for 1-stranded embroidery floss and 3mm neck joint.
R1 and 11 are where you will fold in your head. First work 10 rounds and fold them once to check if the hole are long enough and also the stuffing is enough.
Use MC.
1: work sc 23 around skipped 11 sts and ch 12 of Head [23 sts]
2-10 (9 rounds): sc 23 [23 sts]
Fold inside to check the length.
11: {dec FLO, sc FLO 2} 5 times, sc FLO 3 [18 sts]
12: {sc 1, dec} 6 times [12 sts]
13-20 (8 rounds): sc 12 [12 sts]
Cut yarn and fasten off.
